Noodle Theory in Oakland, CA – update, lunch
Review date: June 2014
(previous reviews appended below)

We stopped in for lunch at Noodle Theory again, craving some dumplings and a bowl of noodles. The only new dish we tried was the goat cheese wontons, which are fried and served with a chile-spiked sweet and sour dip. I liked them; Carlos prefers the traditional pork-filled wontons. 

The shrimp dumplings had a little too much chopped greens in them this time, but the pork dumplings were as good as ever. Both are steamed dumplings, served six to a plate. We prefer the spicy soy dip that comes with the pork, to the soy-vinegar dip that accompanies the shrimp.

Carlos ordered the Hot and Sour Shrimp Noodles again. I like the Pork in Spicy Sauce Noodles. Noodle Theory's kitchen is a bit erratic: the dishes are simple enough that every time I've gotten the pork noodles, it's been a little bit different from the last time. This time the sauce had a little more vinegar and a bit too much chile oil. I like the heat, but the oil pools on the bottom of the bowl and makes the last few bites too greasy.

Still, everything was tasty. Noodle Theory's menu is very limited, so this isn't a place to come very often. One or two dishes might change, but most seem to stay around for a good while. Neither of us like cold noodles, which are a third of the menu. Carlos says he wants to try the soup noodles, which I'm seldom fond of so I'll stick with the stir-fried noodles.

In a choice between Restaurant Chu and Noodle Theory, we'd probably take the latter two times out of three. Both have dumplings and stir-fried fresh noodles, but Noodle Theory has a little more personal passion driving the kitchen. We'll reserve Chu for when we want that great custard tofu and Ghao Shan Lamb stir-fry.

Two people, lunch: three starters, two noodle bowls, one pot of Lapsang Souchong tea, with tip was $62.

Noodle Theory in Oakland, CA – update, lunch
Review date: April 2014

We stopped at Noodle Theory for lunch – again making it in just ahead of the crowds. One really has to get here before 12 noon sharp, or wait until after 1 p.m. There's not a lot of room here, and this is especially true if you've got a group of three or more, where the two-tops need to be shoved together. Like Iyasare, the space is flexible, but it's dependent upon multiple tables clearing out fast enough to seat a group without having to wait around. Also like Iyasare, you have to wait outside; there's not enough room inside for even a tiny foyer. 

We again ordered the shrimp and the pork dumplings, which were yummy and even better after we remembered to ask for soup spoons, which holds the tasty dipping sauce with the dumpling. The dumplings are fragile, especially the shrimp, and it's so much easier if you've got a spoon to help your fork or chopsticks.

Carlos ordered the duck curry noodles, and I again ordered the spicy pork noodles. My spicy pork was just a little different this time – not quite so hot, but a little more complex on the sauce. Carlos said he liked it better than the first time I got this dish, so we switched halfway. 

The duck curry is really rich, very creamy – this is definitely coconut cream, not milk, with a touch of tomato paste and a huge fragrant wallop of lemongrass. It was also hotter than my spicy pork noodles by a good margin, with lots of tasty duck shreds. It's a thick sauce that clings to the housemade noodles, and we both liked this dish a lot.

We really enjoy Noodle Theory. You've just got to avoid those peak times when it's full. Modest, simple, excellent quality, and a whole lot more interesting than ramen shops. 

Two people, lunch: two starters, two noodle bowls, double pot of tea, with tip was $55.

Noodle Theory
6099 Claremont @College & Hillegrass, Oakland, Ca
http://www.noodletheory.com/
Review date: March 2014

Opened in Oakland's Rockridge neighborhood in February 2007, chef-owner Louis Kao's Noodle Theory melded a fusion sensibility with practicality…if there is such a thing. The menu was modest, and it has stayed modest, which is smart. This is a small space with a limited kitchen. It's much more interesting to offer a few good dumplings and hot or cold noodle bowls, than it is to slap mayo on yet another mediocre sandwich. 

A couple of years ago Carlos met a friend at this Rockridge noodle shop, which presaged the ramen craze. He liked it, but said the food was mostly spicy which meant we couldn't take my MIL Inez when she was living with us.  So Noodle Theory fell towards the bottom of our list of "go to's".

Now that we're by ourselves, it seemed a good time to drive over there before the noon lunch rush and try some Asian pasta, having just had some very fine Italian pasta at Desco/Oakland.

Being Asian we're lovers of spicy noodles, and our preference is for Chinese-style dishes. Noodle Theory keeps its ambitions modest, so there isn't much difference between lunch and dinner. The dinner menu has perhaps half a dozen more items on it, but the categories of Dumplings, Soups/Salads, Cold, and Hot; don't change. It does fill up fast, though. When we arrived at 11:45 a.m. there were three two-tops and one four-top empty. In five minutes they were all occupied, although there is a row of modest two-tops outside on the sidewalk. Many people just order take-out.

Noodle Theory starts you off nicely with a small order of edamame, drizzled with their own interpretation of an Indonesian sweet soy sauce. It clearly has molasses in it, along with excellent quality soya, and is sprinkled with white sesame. It's really tasty, even if it makes your fingers a little sticky.

I convinced Carlos to leave the goat cheese won tons for another time – I just wasn't in the mood – and so we chose an order of the Pork dumplings and an order of the Shrimp dumplings, both made with yellow Chinese chives. The Shrimp is served with black vinegar, not our fav dipping sauce. The Pork has a much preferred chile-sesame-soy-balsamic dip that we loved. 

Both dumplings are thin-skinned and clearly hand-filled. In fact, they are over-filled and delicate enough that you worry about them falling apart when you dunk them. They don't, but the chile-sesame dip was so good, next time we'll ask for soup spoons just so we can get more sauce with each dumpling. The serving of each is generous, with six good-sized dumplings on a plate.

Noodle Theory produces their own good quality noodles. It makes a world of difference in flavor and texture. The tables are set with chopsticks and forks, but you have to ask for the Chinese soup spoons, which we'll do next time. 

Carlos chose the Shrimp in Hot and Sour sauce, which comes with the thicker Shanghai-style noodles we love. These are similar to the Japanese udon noodles; square in shape and delightfully chewy. This had a little more sweetness to it than my noodle bowl, with a heat that hit the back of the throat. He felt it had a little too much loose sauce in it, but it was very good. This one had vegetables, too; sliced asparagus and savory batons of sautéed Thai eggplant. 

I chose the Pork in Spicy Bean Sauce. I was hoping it was dan dan mein, but no luck there. It was, however, full of good ground pork (no veggies), fresh chewy thinner noodles, and a tasty bean sauce with no sugar and a great chile wallop that filled the mouth with heat. I slurped this up with real pleasure and would happily order this again. And again. And—well, you get the idea. I loved it, LOL.

Both of us really enjoyed Noodle Theory. It's a simple concept, executes well, and uses great ingredients. If you're a lover of noodles beyond ramen, and you can take that (unlisted) chile heat, you should keep this place in mind.

Carlos ordered a pot of the Keemun black tea, which was good if not spectacular.

Two people, lunch: two dumplings, two noodle bowls, one teapot, with tip was $54.